SAPA: Everything You Need To Know

How to stay off the beaten path in Sapa – What’s worth seeing, and what may be worth a pass

When we first even considered the possibility of visiting Sapa the three same attractions and ‘must do’s’ kept popping up: Fanispan, Silver Waterfall and Love Waterfall. But I cannot stress to you enough – go the opposite way! I mean quite literally skip it altogether and head east out of Sapa instead of west. Most people who come to Sapa are coming for the rice paddies and the gorgeous mountain views, very few are solely coming for the town itself. In my humble opinion, do both but let me tell you how to stay off the beaten path while doing it!

Best time to visit Sapa

There are of course many varying opinions on when the best time to visit northern Vietnam (including Sapa) is. So, let me give you the facts and you’re welcome to decide what works best for you. We visited Sapa in early July which is supposedly the heart of the rainy season and we only experienced a few drops of rain in the early mornings, but this could of very well been exceptional luck. 

Spring (March to April) & Fall (September to November)

During these times, the weather is said to be pretty moderate with lows of 10-12℃ and highs between 17- 23℃. It won’t be nearly as wet as if you visited during the summer months or as cold as the winter. However be mindful, that if you do visit in the fall the rice fields will be a golden yellow as this is harvest season. So don’t come prepared for the lush green rice paddies you may be expecting, but you may be surprised with a whole new time of glory.

Summer (June & July)

Monsoon season! Honestly, my favourite time of year, who doesn’t love a good downpour? In all seriousness, if you do decide to come during this time of the year, be flexible and come with an open mindset – it’s all part of the adventure, right? You could get lots of rain, you could get no rain or you could get something in between. On average, it rains 23 days in July so the odds aren’t particularly in your favor. One great thing about Vietnam is that when it does rain, it’s usually quick spurts throughout the day or at night and rarely rains all day long. But boy does the rain make the rice paddies look absolutely stunning after a fresh rain. Visiting Sapa during June & July is also high season for the local Vietnamese tourists and you will definitely run into other like-minded backpackers. Unlike other places, I’ve been – Sapa during July is relatively calm in terms of tourists, great if you’re looking for a mellow vibe, but there is also most definitely a party scene if that’s what you’re looking for as well.

Winter (December & January)

Now, December & January is typically the high season in Vietnam as temperatures are moderate in most places. Don’t be fooled, Northern Vietnam can be like the Arctic if you aren’t prepared. Cold & damp can be an incredibly uncomfortable time if you haven’t done your research. Most people tend to avoid Northern Vietnam during this time as many homestays don’t have reliable heating – and if you’re visiting Sapa you MUST stay in a homestay. 

Where to stay

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again – STAY IN A HOMESTAY. You’re not here just to see the town, you’re here to enjoy the views, go on a hike, relax and eat some delicious home-cooked meals. Now, before you all get your panties in a knot, let’s use the word ‘homestay’ lightly here. Most homestay’s still represent hostel vibes, they are still most often run by local families but depending on the one you pick, you will come across many other travelers (don’t expect to be the only one). My suggestion to you, pick a homestay about 20-30 minutes EAST (remember east this is very important) of Sapa. If you’re too close to town the views aren’t as gorgeous as the surrounding landscapes are being developed very fast.

We stayed at Mekhoo & Zizi Sapa Homestay for 3 nights and it was seriously the best decision we could have made. Anyone visiting their homestay has the option of having a family dinner every night for 98.000vnd (€3.50). This is a great opportunity to meet any other families or guests staying at Mekhoo & Zizi’s as well as taking a deep dive into Vietnam’s local cuisine. 

The perks of staying at a homestay about 20-25 minutes east of Sapa aren’t just the magnificent views, but the proximity to a local town rich with history, delicious restaurants and of course coffee shops with the ever-famous salt coffees, called Ta Van.

Which brings me to…

What to do in SaPa

Relax at a coffee shop & enjoy the views of the Muong River

There are a plentiful number of coffee shops to choose from and if you know me, I’ve checked them all out. (To be totally truthful, I even sent Haley on a wild goose chase with me looking for a sign for a coffee shop I *thought* I saw the day before. We drove for 30 minutes towards Sapa totally confused and utterly lost as to where the hell this freakin sign was I knew I saw. We past countless coffee shops & viewpoints along the way, but I was determined to find the same one. To keep a long story a bit shorter, over an hour later, and a very hungry Haley, we didn’t find it! Until the next day that is. Turns out it was the total opposite direction and I saw it when we headed to the grocery store. Take this as my formal apology Haley, my bad).

Here are my top favourite 3 Coffee shops & View Points in Sapa

1. Sailing Sapa – I will admit this place was a bit pricey for my small backpacker budget. But still totally worth at least one stop in to check out the gorgeous views. If you’re still in the early phases of the Salt Coffee vs. Egg Coffee debate, look no further. Sailing Sapa does a wonderful job of making both and if you’re going to test it anywhere, test them both here! Admittedly, Sailing Sapa does also get a few extra bonus points for their instagrammable boardwalks and access to treks through the rice fields – but more on that later. 
2. Lúa Cafe – Here you can find a coffee shop a bit more off the beaten path which is why I loved it so much. Despite the insanely obnoxious groups of 15 tourists who came in for all of 20 minutes to take photos and leave without ordering anything, this place was still top of my list! With prices that reflect the local economy, friendly staff, and may I say, without a doubt some of the best views of the rice fields you’ll be able to find in Sapa. Lúa Cafe even has an overhanging rope net, a swaying bridge and a boardwalk if you’re feeling fabulous and want to capture the moment.
3. GIÁY Culture Restaurant – Now, I’m going to be honest here and admit that we didn’t even end up making it to this cafe, that’s not to say we didn’t try! It was only my 3rd day of driving a motorbike in Vietnam, and if anyone knows Haley, her directional skills could use a bit of work. And so when 1 + 1 equals two total imbeciles you can do the math and determine that we got utterly lost. All of that to say, if you can make it, or you’ve got a brain cell and a budget to find a motorbike taxi, this coffee shop was high on our list and seems like a total must-see!

Hike Through the Rice Paddies 

Any hostel or homestay you stay in I’m sure will offer a thousand and one types of tours and if that’s your speed absolutely go for it. We met many people who did tours with our hostels and loved their experience.

However, I do recommend taking a walk, getting lost and enjoying the views the rice fields have to offer. This is where the bonus points for Sailing Sapa come back into play. Being told there are rice paddies to walk in was quite a broad and overwhelming statement for us to hear and dissect. So, if you do find yourself enjoying a morning cup of joe at Sailing Sapa, head down their boardwalk to the bridge, take a hard left and start walking down to the Muong River. I will warn, this isn’t for the faint of heart, agility is required here. The paths can be narrow and slippery and one wrong misstep doesn’t just end with you in someone’s rice field, but it ends with someone’s hours of hard work down the drain and a little bit less food at the end of the season. So be cautious, respect the space you’re in, and stay on the trail! Once you’ve made it down to the Muong River, head downstream until you reach the forest. Here you must pick any one of the paths and walk through the local community until you make your way back to the main road. 

Visit Ta Van

Many people skip this town altogether and instead opt for one of the many waterfalls or hikes you have to pay to be a part of on the west side of Sapa. But this town is not worth skipping!! Surrounded by the lush green mountains and Muong River, Ta Van is home to many Hmong people. Walking around Ta Van is a great way to get an insider’s peek into the local culture, many people speak English and are more than willing to share their knowledge and culture with you. It is quite common for young children or teenagers to be selling souvenirs, don’t be scared off or turned away if they become a bit pushy. Everyone means well, and at the end of the day, many are solely attempting to practice their English with you. I highly recommend staying and having a chat. Ta Van is also the starting point for treks to the Bamboo forest. We opted to find the waterfall at the end of the forest on our own, but many go with a guide and have loved their experiences. Ask your hostel or homestay to set up a tour. Or if you’re feeling rather adventurous, many locals will offer you a tour as well if you can manage to strike up a conversation with them!

Get a Massage and explore the town of Sapa

Sapa can be an overwhelmingly touristy town at first glance, but within all the chaos there are a few wonderful things you must see and do. And If you’re like us, after 4 days of driving around the hilly roads on a motorbike, our bodies started to hurt. (Maybe that’s also just an excuse). Because who can beat a 30-minute head, shoulder and foot massage costing less than €5 each? There must be upwards of 50 spas in Sapa all of which have relatively the same price and menu options, I doubt you could go wrong.

Walk Along Thác Bac Street

Thác Bac Street is a hilly street tucked away in the corner of Sapa town, a bit less crowded and filled with spas, shops and delicious food. If you’re in Sapa this street is worth checking out if you find yourself going for a wander.

Sapa Park & Sapa Lake

I put these together as they’re both must-see places if you’re planning a trip to Sapa. They both bring a bit of nature into the bustling city. Take a walk around, orient yourself and find a good spot to eat and enjoy the views. 

Is SaPa worth the visit?

If you’ve never been to Northern Vietnam before, Sapa is a great place to start! It is well-connected and easy to get to from most anywhere including Hanoi, Ninh Binh, Cat Ba and of course Ha Giang to name a few. Make sure to stay at least a few days to ensure you get the most out of the views Sapa has to offer, as the weather is unpredictable and ever-changing.

Noteworthy Tips for Visiting Sapa

1. Rent a motorbike!! I cannot stress this enough, this was by far the best decision we made when coming to Sapa. It costs us 150.000vnd (€5.42) a day to rent a motorbike although don’t be afraid to bargain and ask for a better price. Renting a motorbike gave us total autonomy over how we chose to explore Sapa and the surrounding areas. It also allowed us to get off the beaten path and explore places we otherwise wouldn’t have. We rented our bike from Mr. Mung (+84 96 486 81 90) and can highly recommend it. All it required was payment upfront and some sort of ID for them to hold on to. 
2. Bring a jacket or hoodie as it gets cold at night – I know, we’re in Vietnam right? But the north can get very cold at night and there is limited heating available, especially during the rainy season. It’s best to be prepared and bring a variety of weather-appropriate clothing if you plan on visiting any town in Northern Vietnam.